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City in Nepal

Kathmandu

Stupas, a living goddess and the start of every trek

Kathmandu is Nepal's capital and the start of most trips, at about 1,400 m in the Kathmandu valley. Give it two or three nights: Durbar Square and the Kumari, the stupas of Swayambhunath and Boudhanath, and Pashupatinath on the Bagmati. Stay in Thamel for budget and trek logistics, or Battisputali for Dwarika's.

Altitude
1,400 m
Best months
Feb – Apr · Oct – Nov
Nights
2–3
Position
27.72° N, 85.32° E
KathmanduPhoto: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons

Kathmandu takes its name from Kasthamandap, a wooden pavilion beside Durbar Square; the Sanskrit words mean wood and pavilion. Newar people, the valley's original city-builders, still call it Yen. The old city is a grid of brick courtyards, shrines at every crossing and markets that run from Asan to Indra Chowk, while Thamel to the north is the guesthouse quarter where trekkers buy gear and book buses. It is noisy and dusty, and the temples are worth every minute of it.

The valley's UNESCO World Heritage listing of 1979 covers seven monument zones, and four of them are in or around Kathmandu: Hanuman Dhoka Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath and Pashupatinath. Many buildings fell in the April 2015 earthquake. Kasthamandap itself collapsed and has been rebuilt with traditional joinery, and Boudhanath's cracked spire was restored and reopened in November 2016 with community money and gold.

For Indian travellers, Kathmandu is a short flight from Delhi or a long bus ride from Sunauli or Raxaul. Pashupatinath, one of the most important Shiva temples in South Asia, draws many families on its own. Plan at least two full days, more if you want to add Patan and Bhaktapur as day trips, and keep a spare day before any Lukla flight.

Say it like a local · NewarYen
the Newar name for Kathmandu

What to do in Kathmandu

Kathmandu Durbar Square

The old royal square of Hanuman Dhoka holds the palace courtyards, the Kumari Ghar where the living goddess lives, and Kasthamandap, rebuilt after the 2015 earthquake. SAARC visitors pay NPR 150 and other foreigners NPR 1,000. Go before 9 am, when the square belongs to locals doing puja.

Swayambhunath above the city

The white stupa with painted eyes sits on a hill west of the city, reached by a long eastern stairway built in the time of King Pratap Malla. Monkeys gave it its nickname. Dawn brings Tibetan and Newar Buddhists walking the circuit and spinning prayer wheels.

Boudhanath and the Tibetan quarter

Boudha is the largest spherical stupa in Nepal, about 36 m high, on the old trade road to Tibet. After 1959 Tibetan refugees settled here and over 50 gompas now ring the area. Walk the circuit clockwise at dusk with the butter lamps lit.

Pashupatinath on the Bagmati

Nepal's holiest Shiva temple stands on the Bagmati river east of the city. Only Hindus may enter the main temple courtyard; everyone can watch the evening aarti and the cremation ghats from the far bank. Dress modestly and do not photograph funerals at close range.

Asan to Indra Chowk on foot

The old market lanes between Asan and Indra Chowk sell spices, brass pots, glass bangles and dried fish, with a temple at every junction. It takes an hour to walk slowly, and it is the best way to see how the old city still works.

Garden of Dreams

A restored neo-classical garden at the edge of Thamel, built in the early twentieth century and reopened after restoration. It is a quiet place to sit between sightseeing and trek errands, with a small entry fee.

Field notes

What most guides miss about Kathmandu

Sourced

The city's name comes from Kasthamandap, from Sanskrit kastha (wood) and mandapa (pavilion). Newar people call the city Yen, and older texts call it Kantipur, the city of light.

Source: Kathmandu

Sourced

Kasthamandap's oldest features date to the Licchavi period; radiocarbon dating points to construction in the 7th century CE. It collapsed in the April 2015 earthquake and was rebuilt.

Source: Kasthamandap

Sourced

Boudhanath's restoration after the 2015 earthquake was led by the local community, cost about USD 2.1 million and used over 30 kg of gold. It reopened on 22 November 2016.

Source: Boudha Stupa

Real prices

What things cost in Kathmandu

ItemIndicative 2026
Hostel dorm bed in Thamel₹400–800 a night
Plate of buff or veg momos₹100–200
Durbar Square entry₹95 SAARC; ₹625 other foreigners
Taxi, Thamel to Boudhanath₹300–450
Tourist bus to Pokhara₹500–750 (NPR 800–1,200)
Licensed city guide, half day₹1,500–2,500

Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.

Getting there

How to reach Kathmandu

Air

Tribhuvan International Airport has direct flights from Delhi (about 1 h 40 min), Mumbai, Bengaluru, Kolkata and Varanasi. Pre-paid taxis to Thamel cost about NPR 700–1,000.

Bus

From Sunauli, buses leave Bhairahawa for Kathmandu through the day and take 8–10 hours. From Raxaul, cross to Birgunj and take a day or night bus (7–9 hours). Tourist buses arrive from Pokhara at Sorhakhutte near Thamel.

Road

Indian cars can enter with a bhansar customs permit at the border. Expect slow traffic on the Prithvi Highway near Naubise and inside the valley's ring road.

Where to stay

Sleeping in Kathmandu

Saver: Thamel and Paknajol have the most hostels and guesthouses; Zostel Kathmandu is down an alley off Paknajol Marg, with dorms and private rooms. Comfort: the Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel, open since 1968, has a quiet garden courtyard and rooms across several price levels. Signature: Dwarika's Hotel at Battisputali is built around hundreds of rescued carved Newar windows and doors, close to Pashupatinath and Boudhanath. Stay in Thamel if you need trek shops and tourist buses; stay near Boudha for quiet mornings at the stupa.

Trips that stop here

See Kathmandu on a trip

Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons Comfort
Nepal · 8 nights · sleeps to 3,440 m

Everest view trek to Namche Bazaar

Domestic flights to Lukla, private car in Kathmandu, five days on foot

From, per person₹92,000Apr – May · Oct – Nov
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons Comfort
Nepal · 7 nights · sleeps to 1,400 m

Kathmandu, Bandipur and Pokhara by private car

Private car with driver

From, per person₹58,000Oct – Mar
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons Saver
Nepal · 4 nights · sleeps to 2,175 m

Kathmandu valley heritage on a saver budget

Local buses, microbuses and shared taxis

From, per person₹12,500Oct – Mar
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons Saver
Nepal · 7 nights · sleeps to 2,012 m

Pokhara, Poon Hill and Ghandruk on a budget

Tourist bus and shared jeep; three days on foot

From, per person₹27,500Mar – Apr · Oct – Nov
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons Signature
Nepal · 7 nights · sleeps to 1,400 m

Dwarika's, Bandipur and Tiger Mountain

Private car with driver; domestic flight Pokhara–Kathmandu

From, per person₹1,95,000Oct – Mar
Photo: Gerd Eichmann · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons Signature
Nepal · 9 nights · sleeps to 3,440 m

Everest lodges trek with Dwarika's

Domestic flights to Lukla, private car in Kathmandu, six days on foot

From, per person₹2,30,000Apr – May · Oct – Nov
Map of Kathmandu, Patan (Lalitpur), Bhaktapur, NagarkotIndiaChinaNepalKathmandu1KathmanduPatan (Lalitpur)2Patan (Lalitpur)Bhaktapur3BhaktapurNagarkot4Nagarkot50 kmN
  1. 1Kathmandu
  2. 2Patan (Lalitpur)
  3. 3Bhaktapur
  4. 4Nagarkot
Drawn by Himalaya Hives from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). Borders as depicted by India. Not for navigation.

Questions

Kathmandu, answered

How many days do I need in Kathmandu?

Two full days covers Durbar Square, Swayambhunath, Boudhanath and Pashupatinath. Add a third for Patan or Bhaktapur, which are 20–40 minutes away by taxi. Before a Lukla flight, keep one spare day, because mountain flights are often delayed by weather.

Where should I stay in Kathmandu on a budget?

Thamel and Paknajol have the most hostels and simple guesthouses, with dorm beds at ₹400–800 and private doubles at ₹1,200–2,500. Zostel Kathmandu is a reliable hostel. Thamel is also where tourist buses to Pokhara leave from and where trekking agencies and gear shops cluster.

Can non-Hindus enter Pashupatinath?

Non-Hindus are not allowed into the main temple courtyard but can walk the riverside complex, the smaller shrines and the far bank of the Bagmati. Hindu visitors, including Indians, can enter the inner courtyard. Foreign visitors pay an entry fee; check current status before you travel.

Is Kathmandu safe for tourists?

Generally yes. Petty theft happens in crowded markets, so keep phones and wallets secure. Traffic is the biggest daily risk. Watch the news for strikes or demonstrations, which can close roads for a day, and follow your hotel's advice.

How do I get from Kathmandu airport to Thamel?

Pre-paid taxis from the counter inside arrivals cost about NPR 700–1,000 and take 20–40 minutes. Ride-hailing apps such as Pathao and InDrive also work in Kathmandu and are often cheaper.

What is the air quality like in Kathmandu?

The valley traps dust and smoke, and air quality is often poor from December to April, especially in the mornings and evenings. Carry an N95 mask if you are sensitive. After the monsoon in October the air is usually at its cleanest.

Can I use Indian money in Kathmandu?

Yes, ₹100 notes are taken in most shops and hotels at 1 INR = 1.6 NPR. Since 2026 Nepal has allowed post-2016 ₹200 and ₹500 notes up to ₹25,000 per person, but small shops may refuse them. Check current status before you travel.

What should I eat in Kathmandu?

Try momos, Newari samay baji (beaten rice with buffalo meat, beans and pickles), chatamari (rice-flour crepe) and yomari in winter. Thakali dal bhat sets are filling and good value. In Boudha, eat thukpa and Tibetan bread.

Is Kathmandu good for families with kids?

Yes, if you keep the pace slow. Swayambhunath's monkeys and Boudhanath's prayer wheels are usually a hit with children. Avoid the busiest traffic hours, use taxis between sites, and carry hand sanitiser and bottled or filtered water.

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