Bhaktapur's local Newar name is Khwopa, and it was long known to outsiders as Bhadgaon. The city stands about 13 km east of Kathmandu at 1,401 m.
Source: Bhaktapur
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City in Nepal
Potters, pagodas and the king of curds
Bhaktapur is the best-preserved of the three royal cities of the Kathmandu valley, 13 km east of Kathmandu at 1,401 m. Its five-roofed Nyatapola temple, potters' square and thick juju dhau curd make it worth a night, not a rushed half-day. SAARC visitors pay NPR 500 entry, other foreigners NPR 1,800.
Newar residents call their city Khwopa; older maps say Bhadgaon. Bhaktapur was the capital of the Malla kingdom of the whole valley until the 15th century and then one of three rival city-states, and it still feels like a separate town. Brick lanes run between three main squares, Durbar Square, Taumadhi and Dattatreya, and most of the old town is closed to through traffic. The city collects an entry fee from visitors and spends part of it on conservation.
Bhaktapur is a working city of farmers, potters and woodcarvers. In Pottery Square you see clay pots drying in rows and wheels spun by hand; in the side lanes, families set buffalo-milk curd in clay bowls to make juju dhau, which the city is famous for across Nepal. Early mornings are the best time, when people line up at temple taps and the squares fill with puja trays and vegetable sellers.
The 2015 earthquake damaged many buildings here, including temples in Durbar Square, but Nyatapola, completed in 1702, stood as it had in the 1934 earthquake. Most monuments have been restored. Stay a night to see the squares empty after the day-trippers leave, and come in mid-April if you can, when Bisket Jatra fills Taumadhi with chariots for the Nepali new year.
The five-roofed pagoda in Taumadhi Square was completed in 1702 and is the tallest temple in Nepal. Pairs of stone guardians line its stairway: wrestlers, elephants, lions, griffins and goddesses, each said to be ten times stronger than the pair below.
South of Durbar Square, potters shape cups, water jars and curd bowls on wheels and leave them to dry in rows across the square. You can try the wheel for a small fee, and buy small pots for NPR 50–300.
Bhaktapur's thick, sweet buffalo-milk curd is set in clay bowls that absorb moisture and give it a firm top. Small bowls cost NPR 60–150 in shops around Durbar Square and Taumadhi. Eat it fresh, the same day.
The quietest of the three squares has the Dattatreya temple and the Pujari Math, a priests' house with a famous carved peacock window on a side lane. Woodcarving workshops nearby still turn out windows and struts in the old style.
The palace square has the gilded Golden Gate leading to the Taleju temple courtyards and the Fifty-five Window Palace. Non-Hindus may not enter the inner Taleju shrine. Go late afternoon for low light on the brick and gilt.
Field notes
Bhaktapur's local Newar name is Khwopa, and it was long known to outsiders as Bhadgaon. The city stands about 13 km east of Kathmandu at 1,401 m.
Source: Bhaktapur
Nyatapola, the five-roofed pagoda in Taumadhi, was completed in 1702 and is the tallest temple in Nepal. It survived both the 1934 and 2015 earthquakes.
Source: Nyatapola Temple
Bisket Jatra follows the solar new year rather than the lunar calendar used by most Nepali festivals. A wooden pole of about 25 m called the yosin is raised and then pulled down to mark the new year.
Source: Bisket Jatra
Experiences
Watch Bhaktapur's potters at work, try the wheel, then taste the city's famous juju dhau curd set in the same clay bowl…
See Taumadhi Square wake up: puja trays at the Bhairab temple, vegetable sellers, tea stalls, and Nyatapola's five roof…
Photo: Greg Willis from Denver, CO, usa · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Walk to Bhaktapur's oldest square, Dattatreya, to see the carved peacock window and the workshops where Newar carvers s…
Real prices
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
Air
Tribhuvan International Airport is about 10 km away; a taxi takes 30–45 minutes.
Bus
Local buses run from Ratna Park and Bagbazar in Kathmandu to Bhaktapur's bus park, a 10-minute walk from Durbar Square, in about an hour.
Road
A taxi from Thamel takes 45 minutes to an hour on the Araniko Highway or via Thimi. Cars must stop outside the old town; walk in from the ticket gates.
Where to stay
Saver: family-run guesthouses around Taumadhi and Durbar Square offer simple doubles with rooftop views for ₹1,500–2,500; book one inside the ticketed zone so you can come and go freely. Comfort: several small heritage hotels in restored Newar houses near Durbar Square have carved windows, courtyards and breakfast terraces. Signature: there is no luxury hotel inside the old town; stay at Dwarika's in Kathmandu and come by car, or stay a night here in the best heritage guesthouse for the empty evening squares.
Trips that stop here
Local buses, microbuses and shared taxis
Questions
SAARC nationals, including Indians, pay NPR 500 (about ₹310); other foreigners pay NPR 1,800 (about ₹1,125). Show your passport or voter ID at the counter. The ticket covers the old town for the period printed on it. Fees change, so check current status before you travel.
Yes. Day-trippers leave by 5 pm and the squares become quiet and local. Staying also gives you dawn at Nyatapola before the crowds. One night is enough for most people; two if you add Changu Narayan or Nagarkot.
A taxi from Thamel takes 45 minutes to an hour and costs about NPR 1,200–1,800. Local buses from Ratna Park or Bagbazar cost NPR 50–100 and take about an hour to Bhaktapur bus park, ten minutes on foot from Durbar Square.
Bisket Jatra runs for nine days around the Nepali new year, usually 13–14 April, with the main chariot pulls and the yosin pole ceremony on the days before and after the new year. Dates follow the solar calendar. Check current status before you travel.
Many houses and some temples in Durbar Square were damaged or collapsed. Nyatapola survived. Most monuments have since been restored, and the old town is fully open to visitors.
Juju dhau is the must. Also try bara (lentil pancakes), chatamari, samay baji and, in winter, yomari. Courtyard restaurants around Durbar Square serve full Newari sets.
Yes. The old town is mostly flat and car-free, though paving is uneven. Taxis can drop you near the main gates, and there are plenty of places to sit in the squares.
Yes. Nagarkot is about 20 km uphill from Bhaktapur, 45 minutes to an hour by taxi. Many people spend the day in Bhaktapur and drive up for the sunset, staying the night in Nagarkot for sunrise.
Yes, several banks have ATMs near the bus park and on the main road outside the old town. Inside the squares, carry cash, because small shops and juju dhau sellers rarely take cards.
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