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Himalaya HivesKashmir to Arunachal

Nature · Dirang, Arunachal

Yak country on the road to Sela

Drive up from Dirang into the cold forests around Nyukmadung, at about 2,700 m, where yaks graze and the national yak research centre keeps its experimental farm.

Takes
Half day
Best time
Morning, Oct–Apr
Altitude
1,620 m
Potatoes and Mustard greens cooked in fermented yak cheese with loads of garlic. At Dirang, Arunachal Pradesh.Photo: Rupasree · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons

Above Dirang, the Tawang road climbs steadily through oak, rhododendron and fir. Around Nyukmadung, about 31 km from Dirang at roughly 2,700 m, the forest opens into pasture where yaks and yak-cattle crosses graze, especially in the cooler months when herds come down from higher ground. Brokpa herders, the traditional yak-keepers of the Monpa world, still move animals between seasonal grazing grounds.

The Indian Council of Agricultural Research has run a national research centre on yak at Dirang since 1989, with its experimental farm at Nyukmadung. It studies yak breeding, health and products such as milk, cheese and fibre. Formal visits to the institute need prior permission, but the drive itself often brings close views of herds beside the road. Do not approach animals too closely; yaks are calm but large and protective of calves.

Many travellers fold this into the Dirang–Tawang transfer, leaving early to stop for yaks, tea and photographs before Sela. If you are not continuing to Tawang, hire a taxi for a half day and return to Dirang by lunch. Carry warm layers: the temperature drops sharply as you climb, and frost lingers in shaded bends through winter mornings.

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Questions

Before you book

Can I visit the yak research centre in Dirang?

The national research centre on yak is a working scientific institute, and formal visits need prior permission from the centre. Its experimental farm is at Nyukmadung, about 31 km from Dirang. Most travellers see yaks grazing beside the road on the drive towards Sela.

Where can I see yaks near Dirang?

Look on the slopes around Nyukmadung and higher towards Sela Pass, from about 2,700 m upwards. Herds are most visible from October to April. Your driver will know recent grazing spots; ask them to stop safely off the road.

Is yak cheese available in Dirang?

Local hard and soft cheeses made from yak or cow milk appear in markets and homestays, often as churpi or in stews. Availability depends on season. Ask your host; many families have relatives who keep animals and make cheese at home.

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