The pyramid-shaped Habba Khatoon peak above Gurez is named after the poet Zoon, later Habba Khatoon, the wife of Sultan Yousuf Shah Chak, whose songs of longing were composed in Kashmiri rather than the court's Persian.
Source: Gurez
Valley in Kashmir
Gurez Valley
Log villages on the Kishanganga below Habba Khatoon peak
Gurez is a high valley on the Kishanganga river at about 2,400 m, 123 km north of Srinagar over the 3,300 m Razdan Pass. Its Shina-speaking villages of log houses sit below the pyramid-shaped Habba Khatoon peak. The pass closes for about six months, so visit June to October and stay at least three nights.
Photo: Aniketchoudhary87 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · CommonsGurez feels like a different country from the Kashmir Valley. The road from Bandipora climbs through forest to the Razdan Pass, about 3,300 m, then drops into a narrow valley where the Kishanganga, known as the Neelum further downstream, runs green between steep slopes. The main township, Dawar, is a cluster of log houses, a market and a government school on a flat beside the river, with the pyramid-shaped Habba Khatoon peak rising directly above it.
Most people in Gurez are Shins who speak Shina, a Dardic language, rather than Kashmiri. Houses are built of thick logs with small windows and earth or tin roofs, designed for winters when snow can cover the ground floor. About 40,000 people live in fifteen villages scattered along the river and up the Tulail valley to the east.
Gurez is close to the Line of Control, and that shapes travel. Indian visitors register with photo ID at army and police checkposts on the way in; foreign nationals have needed prior permission from the Deputy Commissioner in Bandipora since the valley opened to them in 2025. The Razdan Pass is usually open from about late May to November. Check current status before you travel.
Say it like a local · KashmiriLol
love and longing, the mood at the heart of Habba Khatoon's songs
What to do in Gurez Valley
Habba Khatoon peak
The pyramid-shaped peak above Dawar is named after the 16th-century Kashmiri poet Habba Khatoon. Watch it turn gold at sunset from the riverbank, and ask locals about the spring at its foot linked to her in folklore.
Dawar's log houses
Walk the lanes of Dawar and nearby villages to see traditional houses of stacked logs with small windows and stores of firewood and hay for the winter. Ask before photographing homes or people.
The Razdan Pass drive
The road from Bandipora climbs through fir forest to the Razdan Pass at about 3,300 m, with views back over Wular Lake on clear mornings. Snow lines the pass into June.
Tulail valley
East of Dawar, the Tulail valley runs up past villages, fields and meadows towards Badwan. It is a full day by local cab on a rough road, with some of the most remote villages in Kashmir.
Kishanganga riverside
Riverside camps and walking paths follow the Kishanganga near Dawar. Evenings by the river, with the peak lit above, are the reason many people come back.
Field notes
What most guides miss about Gurez Valley
Because heavy snow closes the Razdan Pass, Gurez is cut off by road for about six months of the year, and its roughly 40,000 people, mostly Shina-speaking Shins, live in fifteen villages.
Source: Gurez
The Kishanganga hydroelectric project at Gurez diverts water from the Kishanganga through a tunnel of about 20 km towards the Wular Lake basin to generate power.
Source: Gurez
Experiences
Three days worth having in Gurez Valley
Photo: Zahid samoon · CC BY 3.0 · Commons
Gurez Valley · 3 hours
Walk Dawar's log-house villages
A slow walk through Dawar and the villages along the Kishanganga shows how Gurez lives: log houses built for long winte…
Free; local guide ₹1,000–1,500
Photo: Abhirup Paul · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Gurez Valley · Full day
Day drive into the Tulail valley
East of Dawar, the Tulail valley climbs past small villages, fields and broad meadows on a rough road. It is the most r…
Local cab ₹3,000–5,000
Photo: Zahid samoon · CC BY 3.0 · Commons
Gurez Valley · 2 hours
Evening below Habba Khatoon peak
The pyramid peak above Dawar carries the name of Habba Khatoon, the 16th-century poet-queen of Kashmir. An evening on t…
Free
Real prices
What things cost in Gurez Valley
ItemIndicative 2026
Shared Sumo seat Bandipora–Dawar₹400–700
Private car Srinagar–Gurez, 3 days with driver₹13,000–18,000
JKTDC or guesthouse room in Dawar₹1,500–3,500 a room
Homestay with dinner and breakfast₹1,200–2,500 per person
Local cab day trip to Tulail₹3,000–5,000
Riverside tent in season₹1,500–3,000 per tent
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
How to reach Gurez Valley
Air
Fly to Srinagar, then drive about 123–130 km via Bandipora and the Razdan Pass, 5–6 hours. Leave Srinagar by 7 am to cross the pass in good light.
Bus
Take a shared Sumo or bus from Srinagar to Bandipora, then a shared Sumo from Bandipora to Dawar, which leaves in the morning. Carry Aadhaar or passport for checkposts.
Road
The road is paved but narrow on the pass, open from about late May to November and closed by snow the rest of the year. Registration at checkposts is mandatory. Check current status before you travel.
Where to stay
Sleeping in Gurez Valley
Saver: JKTDC runs a tourist bungalow and huts at Dawar, and several family guesthouses and homestays in Dawar and nearby villages offer simple rooms with home-cooked meals, often with shared bathrooms. Riverside camps open in summer. Comfort: a few better guesthouses and seasonal camps with attached baths; expect basic comfort, not hotels. Signature: there are no luxury stays in Gurez; signature travellers can do it with a private car, guide and the best available guesthouse.
Trips that stop here
See Gurez Valley on a trip
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
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Gurez Valley on a budget by shared Sumo
JKSRTC or private bus to Bandipora, shared Sumos, one shared car day
From, per person₹14,500Jun – Oct
Questions
Gurez Valley, answered
Do Indians need a permit for Gurez?
Indian citizens do not need a formal permit but must register with photo ID, ideally Aadhaar, at army and police checkposts between Bandipora and Dawar. Carry the original and photocopies. Rules can change in border areas; check current status before you travel.
Can foreigners visit Gurez?
Gurez opened to foreign nationals in 2025 with prior permission from the Deputy Commissioner's office in Bandipora, requested several days ahead. Carry your passport and visa at all times. Check current status before you travel, as access to border areas can change.
When is the Gurez road open?
The Razdan Pass is usually open from about late May or June to November, depending on snow. In winter Gurez is cut off by road for months. Early and late season can bring sudden snowfall, so check current status before you travel.
How many days are needed for Gurez?
Three nights is ideal: one day to drive in, a day for Dawar and the riverside, a day for Tulail, and the drive out. Two nights is the minimum. The drive from Srinagar is 5–6 hours each way.
Is Gurez safe for tourists?
Gurez receives growing numbers of domestic tourists, and the valley is heavily guarded. Follow all checkpost instructions, avoid photographing military areas and stay on main routes. Check current advisories before you travel, since border areas can see sudden restrictions.
Is there mobile network in Gurez?
Coverage is limited. Some postpaid networks work around Dawar; prepaid SIMs from outside J&K generally do not. Many guesthouses have no Wi-Fi. Tell family your plans before you cross the Razdan Pass.
Where should we stay in Gurez?
Dawar has a JKTDC tourist bungalow and huts, family homestays and seasonal riverside camps. Facilities are simple. Book ahead in July and August. Homestays with meals give the best sense of local life.
How much does a Gurez trip cost?
From Srinagar, a three-night saver trip by shared Sumo with homestays costs about ₹8,000–12,000 per person. With a private car for three days, add ₹13,000–18,000 for the vehicle. Prices rise in July and August.
Is Gurez suitable for families and seniors?
Yes, for families comfortable with long drives and simple rooms. The valley sits at about 2,400 m, while the Razdan Pass reaches about 3,300 m, so stop briefly at the top. Seniors with heart or lung conditions should talk to their doctor first.