Himalaya only · Saver trips from ₹7,500
Try "Spiti", "snow leopard", "Char Dham", "homestay", "Tiger's Nest"
Signature Kashmir · Balanced
Six winter nights built around Gulmarg's snow: four at The Khyber with three days of ski or snowboard instruction, gondola rides and a spa, framed by a night at each end in Srinagar's palace hotel. Harissa at dawn, kangris and wazwan show how the valley lives through Chillai Kalan.
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · CommonsFrom late December to March, Gulmarg holds some of the deepest snow in the Himalaya, and its gondola carries skiers from the meadow towards the Apharwat ridge. Beginners learn on the gentle slopes near the base and at Kongdori; strong skiers come for the ungroomed bowls off Apharwat, which need an avalanche-aware guide. The Khyber, near the gondola, is the warmest and most comfortable base.
We wrap the snow days with a night at The LaLiT Grand Palace at each end, so a snowfall that delays the road or flights does not break the trip. In Srinagar you see the city in Chillai Kalan, the 40 coldest days from late December to late January: pherans, kangris of embers, and harissa, a slow-cooked mutton dish sold only in winter mornings.
Sleeping altitude, night by night
Red points are nights above 3,000 m. We pace those climbs by the usual advice of no more than 300–500 m of sleeping height a day. This is not medical advice: talk to your doctor before a high trip. Try the altitude planner.
Day by day
Your guide and 4x4 meet you at Srinagar airport and drive you to The LaLiT Grand Palace above Dal Lake. In winter the lake edges can freeze and the chinars are bare against the snow on the Zabarwan hills. Rest, then walk the lawns before dark. Your guide brings a pheran and a kangri to show how Kashmiris keep warm. Dinner at the hotel with Kashmiri winter dishes.
About SrinagarLeave after breakfast. Chains usually go on at Tangmarg for the last 13 km of hairpins, and police may control traffic after heavy snow. Check in at The Khyber, near the gondola. In the afternoon, a fitting session at a rental shop for skis or a snowboard, boots and helmet, then an easy snow walk across the meadow to St Mary's Church. Early night; you start lessons tomorrow.
About GulmargA full day with a certified instructor on the beginner slopes near the base, at 2,650 m. Most first-timers learn to stop, turn and use the drag lift in a day. Non-skiers can try snowshoeing, a sledge ride on the meadow, or a walk through the snowy pines towards Khilanmarg with the guide. Afternoon spa or a long lunch by the fire. Light fades early, around 5.30 pm.
About GulmargSecond lesson day, moving up by Gondola Phase 1 to Kongdori near 3,080 m, where wider runs suit improving skiers. Non-skiers ride up for the view and lunch at the top station. If conditions are stable and you are an experienced skier, your guide can arrange a separate avalanche-aware mountain guide for Phase 2 to Apharwat near 3,950 m. Phase 2 opening depends on weather and snow safety each day.
About GulmargThird lesson day for those who want it, or a free day. Beginners can practise on the base slopes with the instructor; others take a slow morning at the spa. This day is also our snow buffer: if heavy snowfall closed the gondola earlier in the week, we use it then. In the evening, try kahwa with almonds and saffron in the lounge.
About GulmargReturn gear and drive down to Srinagar after breakfast, chains on until Tangmarg. Check in again at The LaLiT. In the afternoon, a short walk with your guide through the old city, past the Jamia Masjid and the Jhelum's wooden-fronted houses, stopping at a papier-mache workshop warmed by a bukhari stove. In the evening, a private wazwan dinner cooked by a waza and served on a shared trami.
About SrinagarBefore sunrise your guide takes you to an old-city harissa shop, where mutton and rice have cooked overnight in a deep copper pot. It is served hot with oil, kebab and a local bread called girda or lavasa, and shops often sell out by mid-morning. Back to the hotel for packing, then to the airport. In snow, flights can be delayed; leave extra time.
About SrinagarWhere you sleep
Photo: Vinayaraj · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Luxury
The former Gulab Bhavan, a summer palace completed in 1910 for Maharaja Pratap Singh, set in large lawns with chin…
Photo: Skywayman9 · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Commons
Luxury
Gulmarg's top resort, opened in December 2012, with rooms and private cottages looking over the meadow and pine fo…
Questions
Yes. Three days with a certified instructor on Gulmarg's gentle base slopes are enough for most beginners to turn, stop and ride the drag lift. The open bowls off Apharwat are for experienced skiers only. Non-skiers can snowshoe, sledge and ride the gondola instead.
Usually from late December or early January to March, with the most reliable snow in January and February. Snowfall varies from year to year; some seasons start late. December trips are a gamble on snow cover. Check current status of snow and gondola operations before you travel.
Yes. The Indian Institute of Skiing and Mountaineering in Gulmarg runs fixed-length ski courses each winter, mostly booked well in advance, with simple hostel-style lodging. They suit longer stays. On this signature trip we use certified private instructors so you can learn on your own schedule.
Daytime temperatures are around −2 to 2 °C and nights fall to −10 °C or lower, with wind chill on the gondola. The Khyber and The LaLiT are well heated. Pack thermal base layers, a down jacket, ski pants, waterproof gloves, a warm hat, goggles and sunscreen, as snow glare is strong at this altitude.
Chillai Kalan is the 40-day period of the harshest Kashmiri winter, usually counted from 21 December to about 29 January. Lakes can freeze at the edges, water pipes freeze, and people wear the pheran and carry a kangri of embers. It is followed by the milder Chillai Khurd and Chillai Bachha periods.
Sometimes. Heavy snow or fog can delay or cancel flights at Srinagar for a day. We keep the last night in Srinagar and a snow buffer day in Gulmarg for this reason. Book flexible tickets, avoid tight onward connections, and carry travel insurance that covers delays.
Yes, in practice. After snowfall, police often allow only 4x4 vehicles or cars with chains above Tangmarg. Our 4x4 carries chains and the driver knows the road in winter. Self-drive is not advised in snow. Road status changes daily; check current status before you travel.
Yes. Four nights in a warm resort among snowy pines, with the spa, gondola rides and optional lessons, followed by a palace night in Srinagar, suit couples well. Ski lessons are optional; you can keep it to snow walks, sledging and long lunches if you prefer.
Yes. Extra nights at The Khyber in January and February typically add ₹25,000–40,000 per person per night with meals, plus instruction if you want it. Skiers often add two to four nights to make the most of a good snow week.
More from Kashmir
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Comfort
Private car with driver
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Comfort
Private car with driver
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Signature
Private car with driver and a private guide
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