Travel style · Nepal
Food and tea in Nepal
Wazwan, momos, thukpa and first flush
Food trips through the Himalaya: Kashmiri wazwan, Ladakhi skyu, Himachali dham, Garhwali mandua, Newari feasts, Darjeeling tea tastings and Bhutan's ema datshi. Cheap, filling and the fastest way into a culture.
Mountain food is built on what grows high and keeps through winter: barley, buckwheat, millet, potatoes, dried cheese and meat, apricots and walnuts.
Nepal is the easiest big Himalayan trip for Indians: no visa, an open land border, the rupee pegged at 1 INR = 1.6 NPR. Come for the Newar cities of the Kathmandu valley, the lake town of Pokhara, teahouse treks to Poon Hill and Everest Base Camp, and the walled town of Lo Manthang. October–November and March–April are best.
Trips
Food and tea trips in Nepal
Kathmandu valley heritage on a saver budget
Local buses, microbuses and shared taxis
4 places
Where to go
Bhaktapur
Potters, pagodas and the king of curds
Kathmandu
Stupas, a living goddess and the start of every trek
Marpha and Jomsom
Apple orchards, Thakali houses and the windy Kali Gandaki
Patan (Lalitpur)
The city of bronze casters and Buddhist courtyards
Experiences
Days that fit the style
Juju dhau tasting and Pottery Square
Watch Bhaktapur's potters at work, try the wheel, then taste the city's famous juju dhau curd set in the same clay bowl…
Morning puja at Nyatapola and Taumadhi
See Taumadhi Square wake up: puja trays at the Bhairab temple, vegetable sellers, tea stalls, and Nyatapola's five roof…
Photo: Greg Willis from Denver, CO, usa · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Dattatreya Square and the woodcarvers
Walk to Bhaktapur's oldest square, Dattatreya, to see the carved peacock window and the workshops where Newar carvers s…
Dawn kora at Swayambhunath
Climb the eastern stairway to Swayambhunath at first light and walk the circuit with the morning pilgrims. You see Newa…
Butter lamps and kora at Boudhanath
Walk the evening circuit of Boudhanath with the Tibetan community, light butter lamps and climb to a rooftop for the st…
Durbar Square and the Kumari Ghar
A morning in Kathmandu's royal square with a licensed guide: the Hanuman Dhoka palace, Kasthamandap, the Kumari's house…
Marpha apple orchards and brandy tasting
Walk through Marpha's orchards, learn how the Thakali village turned from the salt trade to apples, then taste dried ap…
Muktinath: 108 spouts and an eternal flame
Drive up from Jomsom to Muktinath, at about 3,760 m, where Hindus bathe under 108 water spouts and Buddhists honour Chu…
Where to sleep
Stays in these places
Zostel Kathmandu
The Indian hostel chain's Kathmandu property, down a quiet alley off Paknajol Marg a few minutes' walk from Thamel…
Kathmandu Guest House (KGH Thamel)
Thamel's original guesthouse, open since 1968 in a former Rana-era building, with a garden courtyard in the middle…
Dwarika's Hotel
Kathmandu's best-known heritage hotel at Battisputali, built around a collection of carved Newar windows, doors an…