Culture · Nainital, Kumaon
A dawn row to the Naina Devi temple
Start before the town wakes: a hand-rowed boat from Tallital across the still lake, the ridges lit from the east, then the Naina Devi temple on the north shore at Mallital as the first bells ring. It is the simplest way to understand how Nainital fits its bowl.
Photo: Incorelabs · CC BY-SA 4.0 · CommonsBoats leave from jetties at both ends of the lake. Rowing boats are run by licensed boatmen, and rates are fixed by the local authority and painted on boards at each stand. Pedal boats are cheaper but slower. At dawn there is almost no wind, so the crossing from Tallital to Mallital, about 1.4 km, takes 25–30 minutes and the water reflects Ayarpata and Naina Peak.
The Naina Devi temple stands at the north-west corner of the lake beside the Flats. The goddess is worshipped here in the form of a pair of eyes, linked to the tradition that Sati's eye fell into the lake. The present temple replaced the one destroyed in the 1880 landslip. Morning aarti times vary by season, so ask at the gate. Leave shoes at the stand and keep cameras away inside the sanctum.
After the temple, walk across the Flats to see where the landslip debris was levelled, and then take tea at a Mallital stall. If you have energy, the ropeway to Snow View opens soon after and is quiet at this hour. Wear a warm layer: even in May the lake is cool at dawn, and from November to February it is close to freezing.
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Trips through Nainital
Do this on a trip
Each of these trips stops in Nainital. Tell us and we keep a slot for this day.
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Comfort
Kumaon lakes family holiday
Private car with driver
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Saver
Long weekend from Delhi: Nainital and Bhimtal
Overnight train to Kathgodam, shared taxis and walking
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Signature
Kumaon in depth: lakes, orchards and oak
Private car with driver
Questions
Before you book
What does a boat ride on Naini lake cost?
Rowing boats cost roughly ₹300–600 per boat for a set route, and pedal boats a little less, at rates fixed by the authority and posted at each jetty. Rates change, so read the board and agree the route before you start. Life jackets are provided and should be worn.
What time does the Naina Devi temple open?
The temple opens early in the morning and closes late evening, with a midday break on some days. Aarti times shift with the season. Arrive by 7 am for the quietest visit and check timings at the gate. Entry is free; leave shoes outside.
Is the dawn boat ride safe for children?
Yes, with life jackets, which boatmen provide. The lake is calm at dawn. Keep children seated and avoid boating during storms or strong afternoon wind. Mornings are cold, so dress children warmly from October to March.