Nature · Pahalgam, Kashmir
Betaab Valley and Chandanwari by union taxi
Follow the East Lidder upstream from Pahalgam to Betaab Valley and the roadhead at Chandanwari, the start of the Amarnath trail. It is the easiest way to see the upper Lidder: meadows, river braids, birch and pine, and snow patches into early summer.
Photo: Nandanupadhyay · CC BY-SA 3.0 · CommonsThe road leaves Pahalgam past the Mamleshwar bridge and climbs gently along the East Lidder. Partway to Chandanwari is Betaab Valley, a wide meadow enclosed by forest, known locally as Hagan until the 1983 Hindi film Betaab was shot here. It is now a managed park with a small entry fee, paths, footbridges and benches along the river. Arrive before 9 am to have it mostly to yourself.
Continue to Chandanwari at about 2,900 m, 16 km from Pahalgam. In the yatra weeks of July and August it is a busy base camp with tents, langars and security; at other times it is a quiet roadhead where the river runs under a lingering snow bridge into June in many years. You can walk a short way up the valley, but going further towards Sheshnag needs a permit in yatra season.
Local union taxis do this run; Srinagar cabs usually cannot. Many travellers combine it with Aru on the same day for a fixed package rate. Carry snacks and water, wear sturdy shoes for wet grass, and take a warm layer because Chandanwari is noticeably colder than town.
Good for
Also in Pahalgam
More days here
Photo: KennyOMG · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Trout fishing on the Lidder with a day licence
The cold, clear Lidder holds brown trout, introduced to Kashmir in British times, and the Fisheries Department issues d…
Photo: Divya Gupta (divya.co) · CC BY-SA 3.0 · Commons
Across the Lidder to the Mamleshwar temple
A short walk over the Lidder bridge leads to Mamleshwar, a small old stone Shiva temple with a spring-fed tank, on the …
Trips through Pahalgam
Do this on a trip
Each of these trips stops in Pahalgam. Tell us and we keep a slot for this day.
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Comfort
Kashmir in autumn: saffron, chinars and Aru
Private car with driver
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Comfort
Classic Kashmir: Srinagar, Gulmarg, Pahalgam
Private car with driver
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Saver
Srinagar, Gulmarg and Pahalgam on a budget
Shared Sumos, the valley train and a shared union taxi in Pahalgam
Photo: Fulvio Spada from Torino, Italy · CC BY-SA 2.0 · Commons
Signature
Signature Kashmir: palace, meadow and river
Private car with driver and a private guide
Sleep nearby
Stays in Pahalgam
Photo: Unknown author · CC0 · Commons
Budget
JKTDC Huts and Cottages, Pahalgam
The Jammu and Kashmir Tourism Development Corporation runs cottages and huts in Pahalgam, set among pines near the…
Photo: Suneeta3 · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Mid
The Pahalgam Hotel
One of Pahalgam's oldest hotels, established in the early 1930s, set in gardens above the Lidder with rooms and su…
Photo: Unknown author · CC0 · Commons
Luxury
Welcomhotel by ITC Hotels, Pine N Peak, Pahalgam
A five-star hotel in Pahalgam on the Aru road side of town, run under ITC's Welcomhotel brand, with around 68 room…
Questions
Before you book
How far is Betaab Valley from Pahalgam?
Betaab Valley lies on the Chandanwari road, under 30 minutes by taxi from town, and Chandanwari is at the road's end, 16 km from Pahalgam. Union taxis from the Pahalgam stand do the round trip, often combined with Aru, at rates printed on the stand's list.
Can I visit Chandanwari during the Amarnath Yatra?
Access is controlled during the yatra, and non-pilgrims may face restrictions or long checks. Outside the yatra, from about May to June and September to October, Chandanwari is open to visitors by taxi. Check current status before you travel.
Is there snow at Chandanwari in summer?
Often yes in May and June, when a snow bridge over the river and snow patches on the slopes remain from winter. By late July most of it melts. For a reliable snow day, visit in March or April, when the road may still be partially snowbound.