When the British arrived, the Lepcha people living on the ridge called it Dorje-ling, the place of the thunderbolt. The name Darjeeling comes from this Tibetan-rooted word for the vajra.
Source: Darjeeling
Himalaya only · Saver trips from ₹7,500
Try "Spiti", "snow leopard", "Char Dham", "homestay", "Tiger's Nest"
Hill station in Darjeeling & Kalimpong
The thunderbolt ridge, its tea and its two-foot railway
Darjeeling is a hill town at about 2,045 m on a ridge facing Kangchenjunga, 74 km away. Stay 3 nights to ride the toy train to Ghum, watch sunrise from Tiger Hill and walk a tea garden. Come in October–November or March–May. Saver stays start near ₹2,000 a night; Windamere sits at the top end.
Darjeeling sits on a Y-shaped ridge running north from Ghum. The town centre is Chowrasta, a flat square at the top of the Mall, where pony men wait, the bookshop opens late and, on a clear morning, Kangchenjunga fills the northern sky. Below it, streets drop in steep steps to the motor stand, Chowk Bazaar and the railway station. The Lepcha name for the ridge was Dorje-ling, the place of the thunderbolt.
The modern town began in 1835, when the East India Company leased a strip of these hills from the Chogyal of Sikkim as a sanatorium. Within 50 years it had tea gardens on every slope, boarding schools such as St Paul's (moved here in 1864) and St Joseph's (1888), and a 2 ft gauge railway from the plains. After 1947 the cottages passed to Indian families, the tea gardens to Indian companies, and Darjeeling became the home town of Tenzing Norgay and a centre of Gorkha culture.
Today it is busy, steep and crowded in May and October, and quiet and cold in winter. We recommend 3 nights: one morning for Tiger Hill, one for the toy train and a tea garden, and one free for monasteries, the zoo and the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute. Stay near Chowrasta if you can; walking uphill at 2,000 m with luggage is hard work.
Walk up to Chowrasta before 7 am, when the square is empty and the mountains are clearest. Observatory Hill rises behind it, with the Mahakal shrine, where Hindu and Buddhist priests share one site among prayer flags. Keventers and Glenary's, both old Darjeeling names, are a few minutes' walk away.
Founded on 4 November 1954 after the first ascent of Everest, the institute had Tenzing Norgay as its first director of field training. Its museum displays expedition gear and maps. It shares the hillside with the Padmaja Naidu Himalayan Zoological Park, which breeds red pandas and snow leopards.
Yiga Choeling, popularly called Ghum Monastery, is a Gelug monastery started in 1850 by the Mongolian monk Sokpo Sherab Gyatso. Its 15 ft statue of Maitreya, the future Buddha, was commissioned by his successor. It is a short walk from Ghum station on the toy train line.
Set up on 2 October 1959 at Lebong, after the Dalai Lama left Tibet, the centre still runs carpet weaving and handicraft workshops. You can watch weavers at work and buy carpets, which can be shipped. Go on a weekday morning to see the workshops running.
The white Peace Pagoda, 28.5 m high, was built by the Japanese Nipponzan-Myohoji order and inaugurated in 1992. It stands on the Jalapahar slopes, a 30-minute walk from the Mall, with views down the ridge to Ghum. The drumming at the neighbouring Japanese temple is open to visitors.
Established in 1878 on 40 acres given by William Lloyd, the garden was an outpost of the Calcutta Botanical Garden. It has an orchid house, Himalayan trees and quiet paths below the town. Entry is cheap and the garden is a good half-day for anyone who likes plants.
Field notes
When the British arrived, the Lepcha people living on the ridge called it Dorje-ling, the place of the thunderbolt. The name Darjeeling comes from this Tibetan-rooted word for the vajra.
Source: Darjeeling
In 1835 the East India Company leased a strip of land about 40 km by 10 km from the Chogyal of Sikkim to build a sanatorium. In 1849 the British annexed some 1,700 sq km more.
Source: Darjeeling
Happy Valley Tea Estate, 3 km from town, was established in 1854. It is Darjeeling's second oldest estate after Steinthal (1852), and its factory at about 2,100 m is among the highest tea factories in the world.
Source: Happy Valley Tea Estate
Experiences
A 2-hour round trip on the 2 ft gauge Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, climbing from Darjeeling to Ghum station at about 2…
Drive before dawn to Tiger Hill, 2,590 m and about 11 km from Darjeeling, to watch first light hit Kangchenjunga. On cl…
Photo: Matt Stabile · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Walk down to Happy Valley Tea Estate, 3 km from Chowrasta, the closest garden to Darjeeling town. Founded in 1854, it i…
Real prices
Local prices change with season and fuel costs. Check current status before you travel.
Getting there
Air
Bagdogra Airport (IXB) is about 75 km away. Prepaid taxis to Darjeeling cost about ₹3,500–4,500 and take 3–3.5 hours. For a cheaper ride, take a taxi to Siliguri and a shared jeep up.
Rail
New Jalpaiguri (NJP) is the nearest major station, with overnight trains from Kolkata, Delhi and Guwahati. The toy train also runs from NJP on some days, taking 7 hours or more; check current status before you travel.
Road
Shared jeeps leave NJP station and Siliguri for Darjeeling when full, about ₹250–400 a seat, 3–3.5 hours via Rohini or Kurseong. A reserved car costs about ₹3,000–4,000. NBSTC buses run from Siliguri's Tenzing Norgay Bus Terminus.
Where to stay
Saver: the WBTDC Meghbalika Tourism Property is a simple government lodge in town, and many family-run budget hotels sit along Gandhi Road and below Chowrasta at ₹2,000–3,500 a night. Comfort: Dekeling Hotel on Gandhi Road is a long-running Tibetan family hotel with mountain-facing rooms; The Elgin and Mayfair Darjeeling are larger upmarket options near the Mall. Signature: Windamere Hotel on Observatory Hill is the town's classic heritage address, and Glenburn Tea Estate, about 1.5 hours away, is a planter's bungalow stay inside a working garden.
The West Bengal Tourism Development Corporation's lodge in Darjeeling town, formerly the Darjeeling Tourist Lodge.…
A long-running family hotel run by a Tibetan family on Gandhi Road, a few minutes below Chowrasta, with simple, wa…
A colonial hotel on Observatory Hill above Chowrasta, built in 1841 as Ada Villa, later a boarding house for tea p…
Planter's bungalows inside a working tea estate founded in 1859, on slopes above the Rangeet river about 1.5 hours…
Trips that stop here
Private car with driver
Private car with driver
Shared jeeps, one short reserved car
Overnight train, shared jeeps, toy train joy ride
Private SUV with driver
Private SUV with driver; reserved Land Rover on the Singalila Ridge
Questions
Three nights is right for most visitors. Use one morning for Tiger Hill and Ghum Monastery, one for the toy train joy ride and a tea garden, and one for the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, the zoo and the Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre. Add Kalimpong, Mirik or a village such as Takdah for a 5 to 7 night trip.
Take a shared jeep from the stand outside New Jalpaiguri station or from Siliguri. A seat costs about ₹250–400 and the drive takes 3–3.5 hours. Jeeps leave when full, so mornings are fastest. NBSTC buses from Siliguri are slightly cheaper but slower. Fares are indicative 2026; check current status before you travel.
Stay near Chowrasta and the Mall if you can; most sights and cafes are within walking distance and cars are restricted. Gandhi Road and the lanes below the Mall have budget and mid-range hotels. Observatory Hill has Windamere. Avoid hotels far down Hill Cart Road unless you have a car, since the climbs are steep.
Darjeeling is mild in summer, around 12 to 19 °C in May, and cold in winter, around 2 to 9 °C in January. It gets about 3,100 mm of rain a year, 80 percent of it between June and September. October to December is the driest and clearest period. Even in good months, mornings are clearer than afternoons.
Not from the town itself. From Tiger Hill, 11 km away, Everest is a small peak on the western horizon on clear mornings. For a closer and wider view, go to Sandakphu on the Singalila Ridge, where Everest, Lhotse, Makalu and Kangchenjunga line up across the skyline. From Darjeeling town you see Kangchenjunga.
Yes. There are several ATMs along Hill Cart Road, Laden La Road and near the Mall, and mobile data on major networks works well in town. UPI is accepted in most shops and cafes. Carry some cash for jeeps, homestays and small stalls, and for trips to villages where ATMs are scarce.
Yes, especially in October–November and March–April. Book a room with a mountain view near Chowrasta or at Windamere, add a tea-estate night at Glenburn or Taj Chia Kutir for privacy, and plan a sunrise at Tiger Hill or Chowrasta. Avoid May and the Puja holidays if you want quiet, when the Mall is crowded.
Try momos and thukpa in small Tibetan cafes, sel roti and aloo dum from street stalls, and churpee soup or cheese where you find it. Keventers is known for breakfasts and Glenary's, founded around 1885, for bakes and tea. Drink the local tea plain, without milk, to taste the flush.
Yes. The Durga Puja and Dashain holidays bring many visitors from Bengal, and hotels, jeeps and toy train seats sell out. Prices rise and traffic jams on Hill Cart Road are common. Book two to three months ahead, or come in early November, when the weather is still excellent and crowds have thinned.
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