Travel style · Kumaon
Homestays and villages in Kumaon
Sleep in the hive itself
Homestays are the Himalaya's best value and its best way in: Ladakhi kitchens, Spiti mud houses, Kumaoni stone homes, Lepcha villages in Dzongu, Apatani homes in Ziro. Simple rooms, home food, money that stays in the valley.
Photo: Travelling Slacker · CC BY 2.0 · CommonsA homestay is a room in a family home, with meals from the family kitchen. Expect clean, simple rooms, often a shared or outside bathroom in the high valleys, and food made from what the village grows.
Kumaon is the eastern half of Uttarakhand: lake towns near Kathgodam, the old Chand capital of Almora, oak sanctuaries like Binsar, the stone temples of Jageshwar and the Johar valley at Munsiyari. Go March to June or September to November. Five to nine nights by train, shared jeep or private car covers the best of it.
Trips
Homestays and villages trips in Kumaon
Photo: Travelling Slacker · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Saver
Almora, Binsar and Jageshwar on a budget
Shared taxis and jeeps, with two shared private-cab legs
Hostel trail: Mukteshwar and Kasar Devi
Shared taxis and jeeps
Photo: Travelling Slacker · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Saver
Munsiyari and the Johar valley by shared jeep
Shared jeeps and buses via Almora, Chaukori, Thal and Bageshwar
4 places
Where to go
Photo: Travelling Slacker · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Almora and Kasar Devi
The Chand kings' capital, bal mithai and the pine ridge of Kasar Devi
Chaukori
A quiet ridge facing Panchachuli, near the Patal Bhuvaneshwar cave
Mukteshwar
Orchards, cliffs and a Shiva temple on a 2,171 m ridge
Munsiyari
Panchachuli up close and the winter home of the Johar traders
Experiences
Days that fit the style
Kasar Devi and the Crank's Ridge walk
Climb to the Kasar Devi temple, where Swami Vivekananda meditated in the 1890s, then walk the pine ridge beyond it that…
Lal Bazaar food walk: bal mithai and singori
Walk Almora's stone-paved Lal Bazaar from end to end, tasting bal mithai, singori in its leaf cone and Kumaoni snacks, …
Chitai Golu Devta and the Katarmal sun temple
Two very different temples within 20 km of Almora: Chitai, hung with thousands of bells and petition letters to Golu De…
Panchachuli sunrise from the Chaukori ridge
Wake early and walk to the edge of the Chaukori ridge to watch first light hit Panchachuli's five summits and the long …
Down into the Patal Bhuvaneshwar cave
A narrow, steep passage leads down into a limestone cave 160 m long and 90 feet deep, where priests guide pilgrims past…
Photo: Parthasarathi Chattopadhyay · CC BY-SA 4.0 · Commons
Ridge and village walk from Chaukori
Walk from the Chaukori ridge through oak and pine forest and orchards to nearby hamlets, past terraced fields, naulas a…
Mukteshwar Dham and the Chauli ki Jali cliffs
The old Shiva temple that gave Mukteshwar its name sits at the top of the ridge, and the overhanging cliffs of Chauli k…
Rappelling and rock climbing at Mukteshwar
Local operators set fixed ropes on the cliffs near Chauli ki Jali for rappelling, short rock climbs and a zipline. It i…
Where to sleep
Stays in these places
Zostel Mukteshwar
Zostel's Mukteshwar hostel is a favourite of students, solo travellers and remote workers, with dorm beds and priv…
The Ramgarh Bungalows
Neemrana's set of restored 19th-century cottages at Ramgarh, about 25 km before Mukteshwar, stands among orchards …
Photo: Travelling Slacker · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Luxury
The Kumaon
A small, design-led hotel on a terraced slope at Kasar Devi above Almora, with stone and timber chalets facing the…
Te Aroha by Shervani, Dhanachuli
A boutique hotel at Dhanachuli near Mukteshwar, with suites and cottages facing the snow peaks and a restaurant wi…
Homestays and villages elsewhere