Village · Punakha, Bhutan
Field walk to Chimi Lhakhang
A flat 20-minute walk from Sopsokha village through rice and mustard fields to the small yellow-roofed temple of Drukpa Kunley, the 'Divine Madman', a pilgrimage for couples hoping for children.
Photo: Bernard Gagnon · CC BY-SA 4.0 · CommonsChimi Lhakhang was founded in 1499 by the lama Ngawang Chogyal on a hillock near Lobesa, a spot blessed by his cousin Drukpa Kunley (1455–1529). Kunley taught through songs, jokes and outrageous behaviour, and is said to have subdued a demon of Dochu La and trapped it in a rock where a small chorten now stands. The name is linked to a demoness who turned into a dog: 'chi' means dog.
The walk starts at Sopsokha on the main road. The path drops through the village, where house walls are painted with large phallus symbols meant to ward off the evil eye and gossip, and craft shops sell carved wooden versions. It then follows a stream lined with prayer flags across the paddies to the temple on its round mound, which Kunley compared to a woman's breast.
Inside, a statue of Kunley sits with his dog Sachi. The lama blesses visitors, and women hoping for children are tapped on the head with a wooden phallus said to have come from Tibet. Couples may draw a bamboo slip with a name for the baby. Photography inside is not allowed. Respect the rite even if it makes you smile, and keep children close on the field bunds.
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Questions
Before you book
Why are phalluses painted on houses near Chimi Lhakhang?
Drukpa Kunley promoted the phallus as a protective symbol. Painted on walls or hung from eaves, it is meant to drive away the evil eye and malicious gossip. It is a religious symbol in Bhutan, not a joke, so photograph respectfully.
How long is the walk to Chimi Lhakhang?
About 20 minutes each way from Sopsokha, mostly flat on a field path that can be muddy after rain. Wear walking shoes. Cars can also drive closer, but the walk through the paddies is the best part.
Do childless couples really visit?
Yes. Couples from across Bhutan and abroad come for a fertility blessing. Many return to give thanks after a child is born, and the temple keeps photo albums of babies whose parents came here.