Village · Phobjikha (Gangtey), Bhutan
Farmhouse dinner and a hot stone bath
Spend a cold evening in a Phobjikha farmhouse: a wooden tub of water heated with river stones baked in a fire, followed by a dinner of red rice, potato datshi and buckwheat pancakes by the stove.
Photo: Christopher J. Fynn · CC BY-SA 3.0 · CommonsPhobjikha's farmhouses are two or three storeys of rammed earth and timber, with livestock or storage below and the family's rooms and altar room above. Many families in the valley have converted a room or two for guests under Bhutan's tourism rules, and some offer the traditional hot stone bath, called dotsho, in a wooden shed beside the house.
River stones are heated in a fire for several hours, then dropped into a partitioned section of the wooden tub so the water warms without the stones touching you. Artemisia leaves are often added. The bath is hot, so ask the family to add stones slowly and get out if you feel faint. It is not suitable for anyone with heart conditions or high blood pressure without a doctor's advice.
Dinner follows in the kitchen: red rice, ema datshi or kewa datshi (potato and cheese), sautéed greens, perhaps dried pork or beef, and khuli, thin buckwheat pancakes. Potatoes are the valley's cash crop. Families often offer ara, a home-distilled grain spirit; it is fine to say no. Bring a small gift such as tea, and dress warmly.
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Each of these trips stops in Phobjikha (Gangtey). Tell us and we keep a slot for this day.
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Questions
Before you book
Is a hot stone bath safe?
For most healthy adults, yes. The water can get very hot, so test it and ask for stones to be added gradually. Avoid it after heavy drinking, and talk to your doctor first if you have heart conditions, high blood pressure or are pregnant.
Can tourists stay in Phobjikha farmhouses?
Yes, in farmhouses registered under Bhutan's tourism rules. Your licensed operator books them. Rooms are simple, with shared or basic attached bathrooms, heavy quilts and wood stoves. Expect ₹2,000–3,500 per person with dinner and breakfast.
What do Phobjikha farmers grow?
Mainly potatoes, which do well in the cold valley and are sold across Bhutan, along with turnips, buckwheat and barley. Cattle and yak products are also important. Many families move to warmer Wangdue in January and February.