Spiritual · Paro, Bhutan
Morning prayer wheels at Kyichu Lhakhang
One of Bhutan's two oldest temples, a few minutes north of Paro town, where villagers walk circuits and spin prayer wheels in the early morning. Quiet, short and easy to fit before a Taktsang or Haa day.
Kyichu Lhakhang is said to have been built in 659 by the Tibetan emperor Songtsen Gampo as one of 108 temples raised to pin down a demoness who was blocking the spread of Buddhism. The historian Karma Phuntsho has noted that for many Bhutanese the country's history effectively begins with this story. Its twin in Bhutan is Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang. Guru Rinpoche is believed to have visited and hidden treasures here.
The complex has two parts: the old Jowo temple and a Guru temple added in 1971 by Queen Kesang Choden Wangchuck. Two orange trees in the courtyard are said to bear fruit all year. Early morning is the time to come: elderly villagers walk clockwise around the walls, spinning the row of prayer wheels and murmuring mantras.
Walk with them, always clockwise, and keep your voice low. Photography is not allowed inside. The temple is about 5 minutes by car from town, or a flat 3 km walk along the valley road. Pair it with breakfast in Paro and a drive up to the Taktsang car park, or with an early start over Chele La to Haa.
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Photo: Xiaojun Deng · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
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Questions
Before you book
How old is Kyichu Lhakhang?
Tradition dates it to 659, built by the Tibetan emperor Songtsen Gampo as one of 108 border-taming temples. It has been restored several times, including in 1836–38, and a second temple was added in 1971. It is counted among the oldest temples in Bhutan.
How do I get to Kyichu Lhakhang?
It lies about 3 km north of Paro town on the road towards Drukgyel Dzong and Taktsang. Your guide's vehicle takes 5 minutes; walking takes about 40 minutes on a flat road. Most visitors combine it with the Tiger's Nest hike.
What is the right way to walk around a temple?
Always clockwise, keeping the temple on your right. Spin prayer wheels clockwise too. Remove shoes and hats where asked, do not point your feet at altars, and drop a small note in the offering box if you wish.