Apatani village walk in Hong and Hari

Hong is one of the largest Apatani villages, a dense grid of wooden houses raised on posts, their bamboo floors and smoky kitchens arranged around a central hearth. Granaries stand a little apart, a precaution against fire. Lanes open into small squares with raised wooden platforms where clans meet, and tall ritual poles and shrines mark sacred spaces. Hari, a short drive away, is smaller and quieter, with fields running right up to its edges.

A guide from the village is essential. They can explain how clans divide land and forest, how village councils settle disputes, and which spaces are off-limits to visitors during rituals. If a family invites you in, remove your shoes, sit where you are shown, and accept tea or rice beer politely; it is fine to sip and set it down. Some older residents wear traditional nose plugs and facial tattoos. Ask before taking any photograph.

Finish by walking out onto the bunds between the fields with your guide. In spring you see flooded terraces and young rice; in autumn, golden crops and fish being collected. The paths are narrow and slippery after rain, so wear shoes with grip. A half day is enough for two villages, and many travellers return to their favourite for a quiet evening walk.