Evening on the Kameng riverbank

The Kameng comes out of the hills right at Bhalukpong, and in the dry months it spreads into channels between stony islands. A path from the town leads down to the bank. In the late afternoon, local families wash and fish, cormorants and egrets work the shallows, and the forested ridges of West Kameng turn blue behind you.

Between roughly November and March, when the water is low and clear, local operators have run rafting trips on the lower river and anglers come for catch-and-release mahseer fishing. These activities depend on water levels, permissions and whether operators are working that season, so ask in town and check current status before you travel. Wear a life jacket on any river trip.

Do not swim alone. The river looks calm but the current is strong, and the water rises quickly after rain upstream. Take your rubbish back, avoid soap in the river, and leave before dark; the bank is unlit and elephants from the surrounding forests do sometimes come down to the water.