Spiritual · Bumthang (Jakar), Bhutan
Jambay to Kurjey: the temple walk of Choekhor
A gentle 3–4 km walk up the Choekhor valley linking Jambay Lhakhang, Kurjey Lhakhang and, across a footbridge, Tamshing, three temples that together tell the story of Buddhism's arrival in Bhutan.
Start at Jambay Lhakhang, a few kilometres north of Jakar. Tradition says it was built in 659 by Songtsen Gampo on the same day as Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro, as part of the 108 temples pinning down a demoness. It is dedicated to Jampa, Maitreya, the Buddha of the future. Guru Rinpoche is said to have used it as a residence, and a small room above the entrance is believed to have been his seat.
Walk on to Kurjey Lhakhang, about 2 km further along the valley. The story: Sindhu Raja, king of Bumthang, angered the local deity Shelging Karpo, who stole his life force. Guru Rinpoche came, lured the deity out of his cave with a dance and reflected sunlight, and tamed him. The oldest temple, Guru Lhakhang, was built against the cave holding his body print. The first three kings of Bhutan are entombed here, and a large tree behind one of the temples is believed to be a treasure left by Guru Rinpoche.
From Kurjey, cross the Chamkhar Chhu on a suspension footbridge and walk 20 minutes to Tamshing Lhakhang, built by Pema Lingpa in 1501, with some of the oldest wall paintings in Bhutan. Ask the caretaker about the heavy chain-mail shirt pilgrims carry around the inner sanctum. Dress modestly and keep cameras off inside.
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Questions
Before you book
How long does the Jambay–Kurjey–Tamshing walk take?
About 3–4 hours including temple visits, covering 3–4 km on mostly flat valley roads and a footbridge. Your vehicle can pick you up at Tamshing. It is suitable for older children and seniors.
Who is buried at Kurjey Lhakhang?
The remains of the first three kings of Bhutan rest here: Ugyen Wangchuck, Jigme Wangchuck and Jigme Dorji Wangchuck. Kurjey is also central to the story of Guru Rinpoche's arrival in Bhutan.
Is there a festival at Kurjey?
Yes, the Kurjey Tshechu, held in the summer, usually in June; the 2026 tentative date was 24 June. It features masked dances and a large thongdrel. Check current status before you travel.