Festival · Srinagar, Kashmir
Kheer Bhawani Mela, Tulmulla
The annual mela at the Kheer Bhawani temple in Tulmulla, about 25 km north-east of Srinagar in Ganderbal district, is the most important gathering for Kashmiri Pandits. Pilgrims offer kheer, rice pudding, to the goddess Ragnya Devi at a sacred spring under old chinar trees.
Photo: Shivansh.ganjoo · CC BY-SA 4.0 · CommonsThe temple honours Kheer Bhawani, also called Ragnya Devi, the protective goddess of many Kashmiri Hindu families. Her shrine stands in the middle of a seven-sided spring at Tulmulla, surrounded by water channels and ancient chinars. Devotees believe the spring changes colour, and that darker shades foretell difficult times. The present temple was built by Maharaja Pratap Singh in the 1910s and later renovated by Maharaja Hari Singh.
On Jyeshtha Ashtami, the eighth day of the bright half of the lunar month of Jyeshtha, thousands of pilgrims gather to offer milk, kheer and flowers, sing bhajans and share meals. Many Kashmiri Pandits travel back to the valley for the day, and local Muslim neighbours traditionally help with flowers, milk and stalls.
Visitors are welcome to attend respectfully. Expect security arrangements, crowds and traffic on the Ganderbal road. The temple is also lovely on ordinary days, especially early in the morning, and can be combined with the drive to Sonamarg.
Tips for the day
- Arrive early in the morning before the main crowds and heat.
- Remove leather items and shoes where asked, and dress modestly.
- Combine an ordinary-day visit with the drive to Sonamarg on the same road.
Where it happens
Srinagar
Srinagar is Kashmir's summer capital, spread around Dal Lake at 1,585 m. Spend two to three nights: one on a houseboat, a dawn shikara to the floating vegetable market, the Mughal gardens on the Zabarwan foothills, and a walk through the wooden mosques and craft lanes of the old city on the Jhelum.
Stay nearby
Photo: McKay Savage · CC BY 2.0 · Commons
Budget
Zostel Srinagar
A backpacker hostel in the Nishat area, a short walk from the eastern shore of Dal Lake, with dorm beds, private r…
Photo: GharWapsi · CC0 · Commons
Mid
Ahdoos Hotel
A long-established city hotel on Residency Road in central Srinagar, best known for its restaurant, one of the val…
Questions
About Kheer Bhawani Mela, Tulmulla
When is the Kheer Bhawani mela?
It falls on Jyeshtha Ashtami in the Hindu lunar calendar, usually in late May or June. The exact date changes each year. Check current status and any yatra arrangements announced by the administration before you travel.
How far is Kheer Bhawani from Srinagar?
The temple is at Tulmulla in Ganderbal district, about 25 km north-east of Srinagar, roughly 45 minutes to an hour by road. Shared vehicles run to Ganderbal; a private taxi is easiest on mela day.
Can non-Hindus visit Kheer Bhawani temple?
Visitors of all backgrounds can usually visit respectfully, outside restricted areas. Dress modestly, remove shoes, avoid leather in the inner area and follow priests' instructions. Photography rules vary; ask before taking pictures.
What is offered at Kheer Bhawani?
Devotees offer kheer, a rice and milk pudding, along with milk, sugar candy and flowers, poured into the sacred spring. Offerings are available at stalls near the temple. Please do not throw plastic or packaging into the spring.